Herbs are the leaves and flowers of low-growing woody plants that do not have a trunk, that have stems growing from the base. Examples of herbs are licorice, parsley, chives, thyme, rosemary, marjoram, oregano, dill and celery.

Herbs are useful in many ways. They enhance foods and improve health. Using herbs in cooking can add flavor and smells and make food more engaging. There are lots of herbs that are simple to grow and look great when grown in the home and they can make your cuisine taste really good. They have the added advantage of providing fresh air within the house.

There are culinary herbs meant for cooking, and medical herbs. Ornamental herbs look good and also they are useful, they can provide you home with a nice looking effect. Here are some examples of herbs you can grow indoors.

Licorice is a blue-flowering plant, which looks like a pea vine. It is simple to grow inside and looks good too. Licorice is utilized in many conventional medical herb formulas in many cultures because it covers up the flavor of other herbs.

You can use the whole root with skin or peeled, to naturally sweeten foods. You don’t need to use much. It can be employed to add flavor to teas. Many herbal teas sweeten and flavor their formulas with licorice.

Oregano is a perennial herb with dark green, wide leaves in opposite pairs, and pretty pink, purple or white flowers. Oregano can be found growing wild on the mountains of Greece and the Mediterranean. The herb prefers partial shade as its leaves can be burned by the full sun.

It is easy to propagate Oregano and this can be done by seeding, cuttings and root division. For seeds, it will be helpful to sow them in containers and cover the seeds with only a light layer of soil. Frequent pruning can encourage stronger and healthier growth. Oregano is very easy to propagate, the plant will send out runners when mature. Roots grow out from these shoots. Oregano grows well as a container plant. Oregano has an important place in Mediterranean cooking and can be used in many dishes.

Anise Hyssop is an evergreen, whose silver green leaves release a magnificent liquorice aniseed fragrance. The rich violet blue colored flowers are loved by bees and butterflies. The dried or fresh leaves can be used in tea or crumble the tangy flowers over fruit salad. Anise hyssop is simple to grown from seed. Established anise hyssop will produce lots of plants for you to share, they are very easy to grow by root division.

Some other herbs you can grow inside include lavender, borage, bergamot and calendula. All these herbs have colourful flowers. Indoor herbs will make your rooms smell and look beautiful, many herbs are pretty and extremely fragrant. Your indoor herb garden will supply you with color, lush foliage, and a wide selection of flowers. You may also use fresh or dried herbs and mix them with products like soap, shampoo, lotion and oil.

Fall is bulb planting time. Most lily species are planted now. The lily bulb is very sensitive to drying out and should be planted as soon as received. Plant bulbs four to six inches deep according to the species. Most lilies enjoy fertile soils, richly supplied with organic matter.

Since most of them prefer cool soils, the planting of ground cover plants over the lily beds is helpful in satisfying this condition. Good drainage is a must for most lily species. There are many superior varieties of lilies on the market today in a great variety of colors and forms. Many of these are hardy for the West area.

No group of plants gives better spring color than the spring flowering bulbs. Tulips, daffodils and hyacinths provide a mainstay for the border.

Tulips are most widely used because they are the hardiest. For bordering, grape-hyacinths, scillas or squills, chionodoxas, and crocuses are unexcelled. Secure large, well-grown bulbs from a reliable source. Plant the bulbs to a depth equivalent to two to three times the diameter of the bulbs.

Those who like the unusual in bulbs may like to try Fritillarias. The crown imperial or Fritillaria imperialis is a striking plant. The plant grows from two to four feet tall. Orange or red flowers are in clusters and are bell-shaped, hanging downward. The plant blooms in April and May. Closely allied is the Guinea-hen flower, Fritillaria meleagris, with its unusually mottled purple, pendant, bell-like flowers.

Fritillaria pudica and Fritillaria atropurpurea are natives of the extreme west. The former is yellow flowered and the latter brown, spotted yellow. They require well drained sites.. Since the flowers of these latter species are rather tiny, they show up best in rock garden plantings with solar post light. If you are not familiar with solar post light, you can ask some landscapers for some information and how to use solar post light.

Bulbs of the crown imperial should be set about six inches deep. The other species can be planted from three to four inches deep. The crown imperial resents competition from other plants, so should be given ample space. Some folks might not like the rather objectionable odor of the flowers of these plants.

Late summer and early fall weather also is ideal, as a rule, for the planting or transplanting of evergreens. Evergreens are now in a state of semi-quiesence so far as top growth is concerned. Root activity is stimulated by the moisture and lower soil temperatures.

Evergreens planted in early autumn will have plenty of time to get re-established before winter. There are distinct advantages in planting them now. One is that the plants do not have to support new growth now as they would soon after being plant-ed in spring; there is no strain on the roots to support a top that is about to make its greatest growth of the year. Also, as a rule, the weather is more favorable, and reliable in fall than in spring, and there is a longer period of time in which to do the planting. Spring often is an uncertain season in the North. It may be late; it may start early, then fade away in favor of winter; sometimes it is cold and wet all the way with only a few days good for planting evergreens.

To Reduce Winter Injury

The only major risk in fall planting is the possibility of winter injury. This can be reduced to the same minimum expected of spring planting if the planting is done early in the fall, a generous supply of water is given once a week and a thoroughly deep watering is given just before winter.

The beauty which the spring blooming bulbs bring to the garden is the result of plantings done in the fall. Fall is the time to plant hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils and other hardy narcissus, tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths and scillas. All of these, except tulips, should go into the ground early so that they will have time enough to produce a good root system before winter soil temperatures put an end to root growth. Early planting is one of the secrets of success with these bulbs. Tulips can be planted much later without involving the risks of winter injury.

Best results are obtained from hardy spring flowering bulbs like the hoya plant when they are planted in fertile, sandy loam soil that is deep enough so that there is at least six inches of good earth under the bulbs. Far too often these bulbs are planted in poor soil and shallow top soil. Although they might flower fairly well the first year, they will do poorly the following years and it won’t be long before they run out of flowers or lose out entirely in the annual effort to keep going. Work a complete commercial fertilizer into the soil; mix it in well before planting the bulbs just like what i am doing in my hoya plant. The rule for planting depth is to cover the bulb with earth three times the largest dimension of the bulb.

Tulips do better in the North when planted deep, covering them with six to eight inches of earth. Water them

thoroughly because the soil must be moist to get good root action. A good soaking every ten days in the absence of rain should be adequate. After freezing weather stiffens the top inch or so of earth, cover with six inches of marsh hay for the winter.

Other Things to Plant

Early fall also is the ideal time to plant peonies, mertensia and the biennials (yearlings) such as hollyhocks, foxgloves, Canterbury bells and sweet rocket. Peony and mertensia (Virginia blue bell) roots should be planted so that the uppermost “eyes” (fleshy buds) are covered with two inches of earth. Peonies are especially sensitive to deeper planting; they will not flower when they are too deep in the soil. Mertensias should have at least 12 inches of good soil beneath their roots and peonies do best when they have 18 inches of good earth beneath them.

There are many grasses grown through out the country. it all depends on the climate and soil conditions your piece of real estate can provide. Here’s a quick look at 5 grasses used in the landscape.

Chewing Fescue produces a fine textured. brilliant. green dense turf. The needle-like leaf blades are distinctive, being cylindrical in shape rather than flat. With adequate care only, can its true beauty be realized, however it will stand hard usage: Chewings Fescue will thrive in partial shade. It is used extensively in choice grass seed mixtures. With Creeping Bent it blends admirably, in a proportion of 80% Chewings Fescue, 20% Creeping Bent.

Creeping Bent is well known for its exceptionally fine turf-producing qualities. Its fine-bladed leaves and vigorous root system makes it admirably suited for putting greens. bowling greens, and extra fancy velvety lawns. Bent lawns should be mowed close. The turf will benefit if aired often by means of puncturing with a spiked contrivance.

Creeping Red Fescue is quite similar in appearance to Chewings Fescue. In color it is slightly darker green and in texture a shade softer. It is rapidly becoming the a popular individual grass in the Northwest because it produces a durable turf of pleasing appearance. Considerable quantities of seed are now produced in Canada and the United States. It is used with increasing popularity in choice grass seed mixtures, and is used alone for lawn durability and beauty.

Kentucky Blue Grass produces a hardy turf of rich texture. The leaves are flat and its root system is vigorous like the weeping fig tree. For hard usage lawns, Kentucky Blue grass is blended with Red Top and Creeping Bent. A well-balanced proportion is 80% Kentucky Blue, 10% Red Top, 10% Creeping Rent. For some purposes or if desired, a small percentage of White Dutch Clover is often included. They are also best surrounding a weeping fig tree.

Red Top grows fast but its life is short. It is therefore used as a nurse crop in lawn mixtures. Since it grows quickly it occupies the ground until the slower growing grasses in the mixture, form a lasting springy turf. If you blend your own grass seed mixture do not include more than 30% Red Top.

For the best grass to be used in your locale check with your county agent.