Late summer and early fall weather also is ideal, as a rule, for the planting or transplanting of evergreens. Evergreens are now in a state of semi-quiesence so far as top growth is concerned. Root activity is stimulated by the moisture and lower soil temperatures.

Evergreens planted in early autumn will have plenty of time to get re-established before winter. There are distinct advantages in planting them now. One is that the plants do not have to support new growth now as they would soon after being plant-ed in spring; there is no strain on the roots to support a top that is about to make its greatest growth of the year. Also, as a rule, the weather is more favorable, and reliable in fall than in spring, and there is a longer period of time in which to do the planting. Spring often is an uncertain season in the North. It may be late; it may start early, then fade away in favor of winter; sometimes it is cold and wet all the way with only a few days good for planting evergreens.

To Reduce Winter Injury

The only major risk in fall planting is the possibility of winter injury. This can be reduced to the same minimum expected of spring planting if the planting is done early in the fall, a generous supply of water is given once a week and a thoroughly deep watering is given just before winter.

The beauty which the spring blooming bulbs bring to the garden is the result of plantings done in the fall. Fall is the time to plant hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils and other hardy narcissus, tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths and scillas. All of these, except tulips, should go into the ground early so that they will have time enough to produce a good root system before winter soil temperatures put an end to root growth. Early planting is one of the secrets of success with these bulbs. Tulips can be planted much later without involving the risks of winter injury.

Best results are obtained from hardy spring flowering bulbs like the hoya plant when they are planted in fertile, sandy loam soil that is deep enough so that there is at least six inches of good earth under the bulbs. Far too often these bulbs are planted in poor soil and shallow top soil. Although they might flower fairly well the first year, they will do poorly the following years and it won’t be long before they run out of flowers or lose out entirely in the annual effort to keep going. Work a complete commercial fertilizer into the soil; mix it in well before planting the bulbs just like what i am doing in my hoya plant. The rule for planting depth is to cover the bulb with earth three times the largest dimension of the bulb.

Tulips do better in the North when planted deep, covering them with six to eight inches of earth. Water them

thoroughly because the soil must be moist to get good root action. A good soaking every ten days in the absence of rain should be adequate. After freezing weather stiffens the top inch or so of earth, cover with six inches of marsh hay for the winter.

Other Things to Plant

Early fall also is the ideal time to plant peonies, mertensia and the biennials (yearlings) such as hollyhocks, foxgloves, Canterbury bells and sweet rocket. Peony and mertensia (Virginia blue bell) roots should be planted so that the uppermost “eyes” (fleshy buds) are covered with two inches of earth. Peonies are especially sensitive to deeper planting; they will not flower when they are too deep in the soil. Mertensias should have at least 12 inches of good soil beneath their roots and peonies do best when they have 18 inches of good earth beneath them.

There are many grasses grown through out the country. it all depends on the climate and soil conditions your piece of real estate can provide. Here’s a quick look at 5 grasses used in the landscape.

Chewing Fescue produces a fine textured. brilliant. green dense turf. The needle-like leaf blades are distinctive, being cylindrical in shape rather than flat. With adequate care only, can its true beauty be realized, however it will stand hard usage: Chewings Fescue will thrive in partial shade. It is used extensively in choice grass seed mixtures. With Creeping Bent it blends admirably, in a proportion of 80% Chewings Fescue, 20% Creeping Bent.

Creeping Bent is well known for its exceptionally fine turf-producing qualities. Its fine-bladed leaves and vigorous root system makes it admirably suited for putting greens. bowling greens, and extra fancy velvety lawns. Bent lawns should be mowed close. The turf will benefit if aired often by means of puncturing with a spiked contrivance.

Creeping Red Fescue is quite similar in appearance to Chewings Fescue. In color it is slightly darker green and in texture a shade softer. It is rapidly becoming the a popular individual grass in the Northwest because it produces a durable turf of pleasing appearance. Considerable quantities of seed are now produced in Canada and the United States. It is used with increasing popularity in choice grass seed mixtures, and is used alone for lawn durability and beauty.

Kentucky Blue Grass produces a hardy turf of rich texture. The leaves are flat and its root system is vigorous like the weeping fig tree. For hard usage lawns, Kentucky Blue grass is blended with Red Top and Creeping Bent. A well-balanced proportion is 80% Kentucky Blue, 10% Red Top, 10% Creeping Rent. For some purposes or if desired, a small percentage of White Dutch Clover is often included. They are also best surrounding a weeping fig tree.

Red Top grows fast but its life is short. It is therefore used as a nurse crop in lawn mixtures. Since it grows quickly it occupies the ground until the slower growing grasses in the mixture, form a lasting springy turf. If you blend your own grass seed mixture do not include more than 30% Red Top.

For the best grass to be used in your locale check with your county agent.

Roses grow best in rich clay-loam soils located where there is good drainage and where protection is afforded from strong winds. Roses require sunlight and usually do not thrive in shady locations.

Before planting, a liberal quantity of well rotted manure should be dug into the soil or. if manure is not available, a commercial fertilizer such as peat moss should be used. Beds should be dug deeply as roses are deep-rooted plants.

Planting can be done either in fall or spring, but where winter is early and severe, spring planting, as early as possible, is recommended.

Bushes should be set in the soil firmly, after first soaking the roots in water. After planting. cut bushes back to 4 or 5 inches from the soil level and cover the tops completely with a mound of earth for a week or so until buds sprout, then uncover. Do not cut back fall planted bushes until spring.

Rose beds should be hoed occasionally during the summer to eliminate weeds and prevent crusting of the soil. An application of about 1″ of peat as a mulch will help keep down weeds and keep the beds tidy.

Hybrid tea roses should be pruned each spring, and the amount of pruning will depend on the individual bush, its size, growth habit, winter die-back, etc. Severe pruning will eventually weaken and kill roses. Prune so that top bud on the branch is facing outwards.

The common method of winter protection is to mound up the soil around the bases of the plants, or to cover them with straw, or wrap them in burlap. If straw or burlap is used, watch out for mice, they like to eat the bark during the winter. Climbing tomatoes and roses should be laid on the ground and covered. Do not cut back climbers like tomatoes as they bloom on the old wood.

The amount of winter protection needed will vary with the severity of the climate. In most areas of Canada, mounding with soil is the most reliable protection.

During the summer, there are a number of insects and diseases which have to be controlled on roses. Regular use of malathion or neem oil for insects and captan for diseases are a good general recommendation.

Marshall Clewis frequently contributes to http://www.zone10.com. Ready to roll back the confusion climbing tomatoes.

Quite a few people are turning to newer portable garden greenhouses due to their good value. But before you decide to purchase or build a starter greenhouse, it is important that you take a look at your available space and your budget before you visit the store. These things might help in the greenhouse decision-making process. You’ll also need to think about heating and ventilation requirements, and make sure there is a handy supply of water. After you do this preliminary planning, you can then decide the type of greenhouse that will fit your needs.

You have to then choose whether you want an attached or unattached greenhouse. The difference between an attached and free standing greenhouse is that you have direct access from inside the house on an attached, but you will need to physically leave the house to enter a free standing one. Or you may decide to go with an indoor greenhouse if you don’t have a lot of room outside, or the winters are too cold.

The classic barn-type greenhouse is the most common of the many different types of greenhouses available. Many new greenhouse gardeners are turning to portable greenhouses due to their cost and maintenance. But if you’re truly serious about getting into greenhouse gardening you must put some thought into making a permanent greenhouse structure. When folks think of greenhouses they usually think of the glass styles they’ve seen on TV or in glossy magazine pictures, but you do not have to limit yourself to this extremely costly option. You will find that most of the pre-fabricated greenhouses are constructed of an aluminum frame and polycarbonate panels.

Experienced greenhouse gardeners will tell you to construct the largest greenhouse that your space and budget will allow. Even though some are hesitant in doing this, a lot of them end up enlarging their small greenhouse, which makes it more pricey in the long run. Quite a few folks believe it is unnecessary to have a large greenhouse, since they cannot imagine how they’re ever going to fill it up. However once folks begin gardening, they’re likely to begin growing so many plants that they won’t have room for them all.

Be sure to pick plants that best reflect your level of gardening skill. It’s necessary to be dedicated about tending to them, since you don’t want to have wasted all that energy in setting up your greenhouse. Another thing to remember when erecting a greenhouse is that it is important to enquire as to which bylaws might pertain to your area, so that you do not have any unpleasant surprises.

For serious gardeners, greenhouse gardening is the perfect way to extend your growing season. And there are so many different kinds of greenhouses, there’s certain to be one that fits your needs and the space you have available. The Garden Greenhouses site has all the information you need to get started on this great pastime.

Late summer and early fall weather also is ideal, as a rule, for the planting or transplanting of evergreens. Evergreens are now in a state of semi-quiesence so far as top growth is concerned. Root activity is stimulated by the moisture and lower soil temperatures.

Evergreens planted in early autumn will have plenty of time to get re-established before winter. There are distinct advantages in planting them now. One is that the plants do not have to support new growth now as they would soon after being plant-ed in spring; there is no strain on the roots to support a top that is about to make its greatest growth of the year. Also, as a rule, the weather is more favorable, and reliable in fall than in spring, and there is a longer period of time in which to do the planting. Spring often is an uncertain season in the North. It may be late; it may start early, then fade away in favor of winter; sometimes it is cold and wet all the way with only a few days good for planting evergreens.

To Reduce Winter Injury

The only major risk in fall planting is the possibility of winter injury. This can be reduced to the same minimum expected of spring planting if the planting is done early in the fall, a generous supply of water is given once a week and a thoroughly deep watering is given just before winter.

The beauty which the spring blooming bulbs bring to the garden is the result of plantings done in the fall. Fall is the time to plant hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils and other hardy narcissus, tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths and scillas. All of these, except tulips, should go into the ground early so that they will have time enough to produce a good root system before winter soil temperatures put an end to root growth. Early planting is one of the secrets of success with these bulbs. Tulips can be planted much later without involving the risks of winter injury.

Best results are obtained from hardy spring flowering bulbs like the hoya plant when they are planted in fertile, sandy loam soil that is deep enough so that there is at least six inches of good earth under the bulbs. Far too often these bulbs are planted in poor soil and shallow top soil. Although they might flower fairly well the first year, they will do poorly the following years and it won’t be long before they run out of flowers or lose out entirely in the annual effort to keep going. Work a complete commercial fertilizer into the soil; mix it in well before planting the bulbs just like what i am doing in my hoya plant. The rule for planting depth is to cover the bulb with earth three times the largest dimension of the bulb.

Tulips do better in the North when planted deep, covering them with six to eight inches of earth. Water them

thoroughly because the soil must be moist to get good root action. A good soaking every ten days in the absence of rain should be adequate. After freezing weather stiffens the top inch or so of earth, cover with six inches of marsh hay for the winter.

Other Things to Plant

Early fall also is the ideal time to plant peonies, mertensia and the biennials (yearlings) such as hollyhocks, foxgloves, Canterbury bells and sweet rocket. Peony and mertensia (Virginia blue bell) roots should be planted so that the uppermost “eyes” (fleshy buds) are covered with two inches of earth. Peonies are especially sensitive to deeper planting; they will not flower when they are too deep in the soil. Mertensias should have at least 12 inches of good soil beneath their roots and peonies do best when they have 18 inches of good earth beneath them.

There is much more on hoya plant care. Drop by today at http://www.plant-care.com/growing-hoya.html.