Winter injury in herbaceous and woody perennials may be caused by a number of things. One factor is that many of the plants go into winter in a “green” or immature condition. This is caused when plants receive too much moisture during the late part of the season. If it is due to too much rainfall, not much can be done about it, but if artificial watering is practiced, it should be reduced at this season. Hence it is good advice not to overwater perennials too much at this time of the year, so that maturity is encouraged.

This applies as well to deciduous shrubs and trees, and evergreens. The drier period during the fall starts certain chemical changes in the plant so that they are better prepared to stand cold weather when winter sets in. This does not mean that the plants should go into the winter in a very dry condition. At about the time light frosts occur, a thorough watering of all perennial plants will help to put them in better condition for winter survival.

Fall is a good planting season for many herbaceous perennials and a must for the planting of spring flowering bulbs. In the West area, fall planting is questionable for a great number of our deciduous shrubs and trees. If fall planting is done, it should be started as soon as the plants show signs of dormancy. Unless the job is urgent, the average gardener will find it best to wait until spring to do most of his tree and shrub planting. Survival is likely to be much better. Successful fall planting depends on a long fall season, so that plants may establish a good root system before winter sets in.

A number of perennials can be divided and transplanted at this time of the year. Peonies, Oriental poppies, bleeding heart, asparagus and rhubarb are such plants that will benefit from fall transplanting aside from corn plant, especially if the clumps have become crowded, overgrown or weed-ridden. Normally, they do not need frequent dividing unless such conditions exist like in corn plant care.

Although irises are best transplanted around midsummer, this job can be done in the fall. Shasta daisies may also be divided and reset at this time of year.

The bloom is not the only attractive part. Few perennials are so colorful in May and June and then retain such fine, abundant foliage throughout the growing season as do the peonies. In the flower border, peony foliage provides a bold mass of rich green as a background for later flowers.

Peonies are one of the backbone perennials for the hardy flower border. Large plantings achieve a glorious panorama of beauty. Hedges of peonies may be very effective. They are also good when used as borders in the vegetable garden. Because of their splendid summer foliage they are frequently used in foundation plantings around the house.

Planting Time

September and October are usually considered the best months of the year for planting new peonies or dividing and replanting old ones and also guzmania bromeliad plant. If roots have been dug in the fall and properly stored during the winter, they can be planted in the spring with good results, but are not so likely to bloom the first year as are those which were planted early enough in fall to make considerable new root growth before cold weather. Guzmania bromeliad plant and other plants do best in full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Poor results may be expected where peonies are planted near selfish trees or shrubs which crowd the plants and take for themselves the moisture and plant food rightfully belonging to the helpless peonies.

They should be given plenty of room in the flower border since they are happy to live in a good site for many years without being disturbed, and in a few seasons will attain a spread of from three to four feet.

Peonies choose a good, loamy garden soil, heavy enough to include plenty of food and on the alkaline side. Since the plants are deep-rooted and are to remain in the same location for years, it would seem fitting to prepare rather large, deep holes conditioned with ground limestone, wood ashes, bone meal and well-rotted cow manure. Three to five bud or eye divisions are considered the satisfactory size to purchase from the commercial grower.

Fall is bulb planting time. Most lily species are planted now. The lily bulb is very sensitive to drying out and should be planted as soon as received. Plant bulbs four to six inches deep according to the species. Most lilies enjoy fertile soils, richly supplied with organic matter.

Since most of them prefer cool soils, the planting of ground cover plants over the lily beds is helpful in satisfying this condition. Good drainage is a must for most lily species. There are many superior varieties of lilies on the market today in a great variety of colors and forms. Many of these are hardy for the West area.

No group of plants gives better spring color than the spring flowering bulbs. Tulips, daffodils and hyacinths provide a mainstay for the border.

Tulips are most widely used because they are the hardiest. For bordering, grape-hyacinths, scillas or squills, chionodoxas, and crocuses are unexcelled. Secure large, well-grown bulbs from a reliable source. Plant the bulbs to a depth equivalent to two to three times the diameter of the bulbs.

Those who like the unusual in bulbs may like to try Fritillarias. The crown imperial or Fritillaria imperialis is a striking plant. The plant grows from two to four feet tall. Orange or red flowers are in clusters and are bell-shaped, hanging downward. The plant blooms in April and May. Closely allied is the Guinea-hen flower, Fritillaria meleagris, with its unusually mottled purple, pendant, bell-like flowers.

Fritillaria pudica and Fritillaria atropurpurea are natives of the extreme west. The former is yellow flowered and the latter brown, spotted yellow. They require well drained sites.. Since the flowers of these latter species are rather tiny, they show up best in rock garden plantings with solar post light. If you are not familiar with solar post light, you can ask some landscapers for some information and how to use solar post light.

Bulbs of the crown imperial should be set about six inches deep. The other species can be planted from three to four inches deep. The crown imperial resents competition from other plants, so should be given ample space. Some folks might not like the rather objectionable odor of the flowers of these plants.

It’s a shame to see autumn leaves go to waste every fall. They are an excellent source of organic material and should be placed in the compost pile along with other discarded plant parts. When cleaning up the garden, don’t destroy any potential organic material that can be placed on the compost pile and eventually be returned to the garden as humus.

Before frosts occur, why not pot up some of your best annual and perennial flowering plants and have them grow and bloom for you during the next few months? Petunias and geraniums handle very well this way. If you have grown some mums that haven’t bloomed outdoors, pot them up and bring them inside. You can probably think of other flowers in the garden that would stand transplanting for indoor bloom.

If you follow frost warnings, it is possible to protect plants from frost damage by proper covering. Valuable vegetables like tomatoes, and many flowers like the orchid plant , can be protected with coverings such as blankets, newspapers, or polyethylene tents. Often a long season of warm weather, “Indian Summer,” follows a night or two of killing frosts. By protecting tender plants from such a hazard, their period of usefulness can be extended often for several weeks longer.

Mulches such as clean straw or hay protect many perennial plants over winter. It is important not to apply these mulches too early in the fall. Plants like orchid plant need to be subjected to a few nights of cool, frosty weather to induce certain chemical changes that put them in better shape to withstand the rigors of winter. One of these changes is the change from sugars to starches in the plant. The starches are stored in various plant parts – usually in the roots, or in modified root and stem structures. If the plants are not “prepared” properly, they are very susceptible to winter damage. One of the best visible indicators of these chemical and physical changes going on in the plants is the change of color in the autumn leaves and the gradual loss of these leaves on deciduous plants.

Mulches act as insulators and protect the plants from sudden fluctuations in temperature. Mulches also reduce frost heaving. Plants are more subject to drying out, and subsequent killing, because of this heaving.

Fall is bulb planting time. Most lily species are planted now. The lily bulb is very sensitive to drying out and should be planted as soon as received. Plant bulbs four to six inches deep according to the species. Most lilies enjoy fertile soils, richly supplied with organic matter.

Since most of them prefer cool soils, the planting of ground cover plants over the lily beds is helpful in satisfying this condition. Good drainage is a must for most lily species. There are many superior varieties of lilies on the market today in a great variety of colors and forms. Many of these are hardy for the West area.

No group of plants gives better spring color than the spring flowering bulbs. Tulips, daffodils and hyacinths provide a mainstay for the border.

Tulips are most widely used because they are the hardiest. For bordering, grape-hyacinths, scillas or squills, chionodoxas, and crocuses are unexcelled. Secure large, well-grown bulbs from a reliable source. Plant the bulbs to a depth equivalent to two to three times the diameter of the bulbs.

Those who like the unusual in bulbs may like to try Fritillarias. The crown imperial or Fritillaria imperialis is a striking plant. The plant grows from two to four feet tall. Orange or red flowers are in clusters and are bell-shaped, hanging downward. The plant blooms in April and May. Closely allied is the Guinea-hen flower, Fritillaria meleagris, with its unusually mottled purple, pendant, bell-like flowers.

Fritillaria pudica and Fritillaria atropurpurea are natives of the extreme west. The former is yellow flowered and the latter brown, spotted yellow. They require well drained sites.. Since the flowers of these latter species are rather tiny, they show up best in rock garden plantings with solar post light. If you are not familiar with solar post light, you can ask some landscapers for some information and how to use solar post light.

Bulbs of the crown imperial should be set about six inches deep. The other species can be planted from three to four inches deep. The crown imperial resents competition from other plants, so should be given ample space. Some folks might not like the rather objectionable odor of the flowers of these plants.